what took me so long
Holy moly. If I wasn't so opposed to the eyesore that is ALL CAPS, I would post this entire entry that way, also bolded, and with plenty of hyperbolic exclamation points.
So I realize that people in the know have been talking up the Red Hook street food scene for a while now, but I'm fully embarrassed that it took me this long to experience it for myself. My. God. I swear I planned on going even before this week's glowing NY Times piece, and I was worried that the article might result in annoying crowds today, but there was no reason to fret -- I don't think anything could've ruined this sublime eating adventure. I took the F to Smith & 9th and from there it was an easy 10-12 minute walk to the vendors on Clinton and Bay streets. There are probably about 15 individul stalls serving up all kinds of deliciousness. I started with a very ample portion of ceviche mixto ($6). I'd venture to say it was the best ceviche I've ever had: chock full of shrimp, whitefish, octopus, and squid, all stewing in a flavorful limey broth with red onions and cilantro. The shrimp was the best -- plump and juicy and so very fresh. I'm not the world's biggest octopus fan, so I left a few pieces uneaten, but beyond that I devoured the entire thing. That turned out to be a bit of a problem -- I'd definitely suggest bringing a friend or two along so you can share a bunch of dishes, instead of doing what I did and stuffing yourself silly on just three.
Next up were the pupusas:

I'm sorry to say that these are not the exact pupusas I ate, because I am a damn fool and forgot to take pictures, even though I had my camera with me. Anyway, "pupusas" is not only fun to say, it's also pretty neato to watch them being made. They're kind of like fried pancakes (but made from masa), stuffed with whatever savory goodness you desire. I'd planned on ordering bean and cheese, but I somehow (my own fault) ended up with shredded pork and cheese, served with a side of vinegary cabbage slaw ($1.50). No complaints there. I told myself I'd only eat half, but that just didn't happen.
By this point I was getting REALLY (all caps necessary) full, and I wasn't sure what to do next. Then I had what for about two seconds seemed like the brightest idea ever: I'd snack on an old standby -- corn-on-the-cob slathered with mayo and parmesan -- and wander around for a bit til my stomach settled and was ready for more. I stood in line and watched the guy put at least a cup of mayonnaise (Hellman's) on a customer's corn. Don't get me wrong - I'm sure it was super-tasty, and I could've asked him to go light on mine, but all of a sudden is just seemed like the wrong move. So instead I jumped right back in and got a chicken tamale ($1.50) Wowsers. Pretty much perfect. The chicken was so tender. Every bite was better than the last. And once again, I basically ate the whole thing. It was then that I realized I hadn't had anything to drink, so I bought some sort of pineapple beverage ($2) that was refreshing and yummy.
And that was the end. I seriously couldn't have eaten another thing, although there was plenty of stuff I didn't try. I'll definitely be making multiple return visits before they shut down for the winter (which I think happens in October). Also, I really wish I knew more Spanish than the six classes worth that I took last summer -- there was so much fun and friendly banter going on, I would've loved to have been able to understand it.
Side note: after the above-mentioned feast, I staggered over to the Cobble Hill theater and caught a double feature of Half Nelson followed by Trust the Man. Half Nelson is probably in my top three movies of the year so far. Run out and see it now. Ryan Gosling better get nominated. I didn't have hugely high hopes for Trust the Man, but it was decent enough, and Billy Crudup, who I'm pretty non-committal about, was hilarious.





